Easy water supply/flush connection

[brenkco]

I saw an interesting ad on Facebook for a slick system of stainless quick connections and valves that connect the water supply to both the fresh and flush inputs. When I saw the price of $130, I thought that was a bit pricey.

I found gorilla easy connections on the web and decided to make my own. For about $65 (along with Home Depot) here’s what I was able to imitate.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

We are thinking along the same line, but I like to have the 3 way spliter and pressure valve outside the RV. I can then shut the fresh valve, use the black tank flush setup, then open the middle value to release back pressure from black line. I will then remove black tank hose and flush middle and right valve again, before using fresh valve again.

 

[brenkco]

Nice, good idea!

 

[Flyer32RLS]

Did the same but all hooked up inside the wet bay with just a small section of hose to put thru the pass tru and quick connect to water supply with the pressure regulator and filter.

 

[George]

I like the water-stop feature of the Melnor QD's They work like an air hose QD.

 

[Midnight Rider]

Did the same but all hooked up inside the wet bay with just a small section of hose to put thru the pass tru and quick connect to water supply with the pressure regulator and filter.

Picture handy?

 

[RockDr896]

This has been my setup for 3 years and since we are posting setups..... I wanted the shutoff's above the blank tanks, even though there is a check valve on the backside flush. The other benefit, is only needing one hose and the connection is right at the drain hole. There are a few times when placing the hose connection there comes in handy. I just didn't want to carry all the hoses. Now I just throw valves.......

 

[Oregon_Camper]

This has been my setup for 3 years and since we are posting setups..... I wanted the shutoff's above the blank tanks, even though there is a check valve on the backside flush. The other benefit, is only needing one hose and the connection is right at the drain hole. There are a few times when placing the hose connection there comes in handy. I just didn't want to carry all the hoses. Now I just throw valves.......

Have you ever tested your setup, by turning off one of your incoming lines? My thinking is the main hose (from city connection) only carries XYZ number of gallons per minute. If you only have XYZ number of incoming gallons per minute, splitting that into two lines, then combining back to the single line coming into RV, should have no impact.

 

[RockDr896]

Have you ever tested your setup, by turning off one of your incoming lines? My thinking is the main hose (from city connection) only carries XYZ number of gallons per minute. If you only have XYZ number of incoming gallons per minute, splitting that into two lines, then combining back to the single line coming into RV, should have no impact.

View attachment 4767

I haven't, but the 4-way fitting reduces the ID down to 3/8", so I am just spit balling that it helps on volume. The coach inside, performs as it did when I started the RV experience with a straight hose connection. Not to mention, Lowes carry's the part, if I ever need to replace. I offer it as another way to skin the proverbial cat.

 

[Midnight Rider]

This has been my setup for 3 years and since we are posting setups..... I wanted the shutoff's above the blank tanks, even though there is a check valve on the backside flush. The other benefit, is only needing one hose and the connection is right at the drain hole. There are a few times when placing the hose connection there comes in handy. I just didn't want to carry all the hoses. Now I just throw valves.......

That thing is the Sea Monster!😂

 

[Midnight Rider]

Have you ever tested your setup, by turning off one of your incoming lines? My thinking is the main hose (from city connection) only carries XYZ number of gallons per minute. If you only have XYZ number of incoming gallons per minute, splitting that into two lines, then combining back to the single line coming into RV, should have no impact.

View attachment 4767

To what benefit is the line that splits and then goes back? The Split washer machine hose? What am I missing?
it looks cool?

 

[RockDr896]

To what benefit is the line that splits and then goes back? The Split washer machine hose? What am I missing?
it looks cool?

The Sea Monster is now it's NAME!! The only reason the lines are twisted, is because it oriented the threads to the 4-way better. I was intending to do something more professional looking, but this is working so good, I never went any further.

 

[Flyer32RLS]

Have you ever tested your setup, by turning off one of your incoming lines? My thinking is the main hose (from city connection) only carries XYZ number of gallons per minute. If you only have XYZ number of incoming gallons per minute, splitting that into two lines, then combining back to the single line coming into RV, should have no impact.

View attachment 4767

Jim,
Not an fluid engineer but that set up makes no sense to a novice like me. You have one hose that is going in, then it splits then back into one inlet port.
The one hose coming into the set up can only supply so much pressure and the one inlet can only except so much so I fail to see where the two hoses split from one hose going into one inlet port can increase any pressure. Now if you had two hoses from two different outlet faucets going into the single inlet top the RV, I can see where that MIGHT increase pressure.

Please in layman terms explain how that can increase the pressure in the RV.
Curious minds need to know!!

 

[2 Allies]

As RockDr896 said, the valves are reducing the orifice that the water is passing through and by having 2 orifices adding them together will provide for full flow through the nautilus orifice. My best guess.....

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Jim,
Not an fluid engineer but that set up makes no sense to a novice like me. You have one hose that is going in, then it splits then back into one inlet port.
The one hose coming into the set up can only supply so much pressure and the one inlet can only except so much so I fail to see where the two hoses split from one hose going into one inlet port can increase any pressure. Now if you had two hoses from two different outlet faucets going into the single inlet top the RV, I can see where that MIGHT increase pressure.

Please in layman terms explain how that can increase the pressure in the RV.
Curious minds need to know!!

We agree. I was questioning the design.

 

[RockDr896]

As RockDr896 said, the valves are reducing the orifice that the water is passing through and by having 2 orifices adding them together will provide for full flow through the nautilus orifice. My best guess.....

You are correct in interpreting my rational. The valves reduce the Inside diameter to 3/8" from a 3/4" hose. So I went with (2) 3/8" hose connection, in order to get the volume (Not Pressure), back to full Inside diameter supply line.

Water pressure actually pushes out towards the pipe walls and only the center of the water pipe moves within the pipe. So if the ID is only 3/8", then that is all that is moving through the fitting, regardless of the pressure. It is a faster 3/8" flow, but volume matters more if you want to run two fixtures that demand more than a 3/8" line at pressure can produce.

This is why shallow watermain pipes freeze, because the water at the walls of the pipe, is not moving at the same speed as the center. One can say is not moving at all. This is also why fire or water dept's open fire hydrants and try to create more demand for water and flush the lines better.

 

[Flyer32RLS]

Sorry Gentlemen, but I'm just lost in the dark I guess. If you start with 3 GPM flow, how does decreasing then increasing the diameter increase volume. Bernoulli's Principle states. "an increase in the speed of a fluid (liquid or gas) occurs simultaneously with a decrease in its pressure. Proven law of motion since 1730's. If you start with 3 GPM flow and then you speed it up (smaller diameter increase pressure) then slow it down again, (larger diameter decrease pressure) you end up with what you started with, 3 GPM. If you decrease diameter, you can increase pressure but not the volume 3 Gal is 3 Gal.
If I am incorrect, please try to enlighten me.

 

[Flyer32RLS]

We agree. I was questioning the design.

Jim, not real sure who you agreeing with, Me or RockDR. I just acquired the material to have two hoses, into city water and black flush connections from a common connection manifold with individual cut offs to one short hose just out of the pass thru and coming from city water with a quick disconnect. So I don't have to connect every time to botgh when I hook hook up.
Saw that on here somewhere thought it was a great idea!!

 

[2 Allies]

It appears to me that he has avoided decreasing the diameter to ensure continued normal flow unless I am missing something. If you assume he has whatever a 3/4 hose diameter is and is running through (2) 3/8 orifice back to a 3/4 hose connection, he could not be losing to much flow.
Not a liquid dynamics engineer but I stayed in a Holiday-Inn Express last night

 

[Flyer32RLS]

It appears to me that he has avoided decreasing the diameter to ensure continued normal flow unless I am missing something. If you assume he has whatever a 3/4 hose diameter is and is running through (2) 3/8 orifice back to a 3/4 hose connection, he could not be losing to much flow.
Not a liquid dynamics engineer but I stayed in a Holiday-Inn Express last night

Hey Bruce, From what I read, he was going from 3/4" to two 3/8" back into the single 3/4" connection on the Nautilus connection. I agree. He will probably not lose any flow but from what he was saying, he did it to increase flow. That made no sense to me.