Black tank won't take water
- Thread starter tchirpich
- Start date
BryanValRox
Elite Member
Water should flow directly to the black tank flush! My guess is that the lines might be hooked up backwards on the back flow preventer. See attached. Or something could be pinched or kinked between the panel and the spray nozzle.
Either way, you will need to trace out the lines and connections.
Quick fix would be to inspect the "check valve". To do this, pop out the screen on the black tank inlet. The check valve is behind the screen. The valve should pointing out (it pushes in and out). If the screen was not in an outward cone shape, it most likely pushed the check valve in.
No check valve under bathroom sink, cone was pointing out on the washer and screen, is there something in the line that is supposed to be pointing out also? Would I have to take the whole panel off to change this? My guess is it might be installed backwards?, should this be covered under warranty? Unit is 3 months old
BryanValRox
Elite Member
Hi Jim, Happy New Year’s Eve!
Definitely great advice for the city inlet water connection!
It has been my experience that the Black tank flush connection on the panel is straight thru without a check valve.
I always get water that pushes back out of the black connection when I unhook my flush hose.
I believe this is because of the back flow preventer that is normally installed in the flush line downstream of the panel.
Just wanted to share my experience, others may experience something different.
BryanValRox
Elite Member
Sounds like it is time to start visually and physically chasing the plumbing lines. Good thing is that it should be white Pex. Have you checked under all sink locations on your rig? Consider contacting Alliance Service via email with your VIN. They should be able to share the location of the back flow preventer.
One needs to be installed or you risk gases coming back thru the flush nozzle and into the plumbing and out the black flush connection into the compartment area.
I would be shocked it one isn’t hid somewhere . Again feels like reverse connections or kinked lines.
BryanValRox
Elite Member
Can you remove the screen and see if a small drill bit or something small enough can be inserted by hand without resistance?
Can you remove an access panel to see in behind the Nataulis Panel so you can inspect the plumbing for kinks etc that might be easily visible? If you can’t insert a drill thru the fitting, start there, it is possible that the fitting might have molding flashing that wasn’t removed or was molded incorrectly.
Watch this Alliance video. It will show you the arrow on the check valve under the bathroom sink. Confirm the arrow is pointing in the right direction. If not, simply remove it and install correctly.
RoadJunkie
Member
Well, have you previously been able to flush the black tank, or is this a new problem?
Midnight Rider
Prominent Member
Sa
Same thing happens to me.
Go to Lowes/Home Depot and buy one of these 45 degree brass garden hose connectors WITH the quick shutoff valve. Connect to black inlets. Now...when you use black tank flush, shut off the rinse with this valve first. Water will never flow back out again. I use a water flow meter and then quick connect on outter side of that to quick attach/detach my dedicated black tank flush hose
RoadJunkie
Member
I'm sure others have mentioned that you inspect the inlet screen to assure it is inserted convex to the inlet.
Midnight Rider
Prominent Member
Y
Yes its warranty work.
Midnight Rider
Prominent Member
It shall be so!
weather has been so nice i was thinking about dewinterizing and taking off for a bit!
This is my control panel Mod, since we are sharing. Since there is a check valve on the backside of the flush connection and the Rinse connection is well above the tank level. This setup adds shut off valves to either side and I have been running it this way for 3 years now. When I think about it, running 2 separate hoses, because a check valve COULD fail, then I would be affecting the main water supply instead. In other words, same problem either way. I have disinfected 24" water mains before, so I guess it is not a fear of mine. I guess you could even throw in another check valve if you wanted.
This setup allows me to use 1 hose, 1 flow meter, and I just simply throw valves to direct flow. The hoses are $11 mixer hoses used for washer machines. I also carry two (2) Camco 25' EvoFlex2 collapsible hoses. They save sooooo much storage space! I only need 25' to date, but I have a backup plan with the second one. They are very tough and easy to deal with on a cold day.
Note: The hoses are twisted, because it removed some tension to the 4-way garden hose splitter.
This setup allows me to use 1 hose, 1 flow meter, and I just simply throw valves to direct flow. The hoses are $11 mixer hoses used for washer machines. I also carry two (2) Camco 25' EvoFlex2 collapsible hoses. They save sooooo much storage space! I only need 25' to date, but I have a backup plan with the second one. They are very tough and easy to deal with on a cold day.
Note: The hoses are twisted, because it removed some tension to the 4-way garden hose splitter.
Attachments
Why did you go with 2x lines to each inlet vs just 1, allowing you to use a 2 way splitter and less areas that could leak?
Since the valves reduce the inside diameter, I wanted more volume. I don't know if this actually accomplishes this, but things seem no different in the rig. I run my rig at 60 psi, so maybe that makes a difference. Everything stays connected, even durring travel. Just hook in the water hose and done at setup.