Main propane regulator flaky?

[MontanaHeaven]

310RL. A couple three times over the last 7-8 months we'll find we're "out of propane", but when i go out and check the tanks one is empty and the other is at least half full, or more. The black selector switch is always straight up which pulls from both (assume?). I flip the switch both ways and then back to middle position and gas seems to flow normally again. Do these things go flaky, especially after a couple cold winters?

 

[Terri&KevinGates]

With the auto change over regulators leaving the lever in the center should pull from both tanks. They are made to have the lever pointed towards one tank or the other. It will allow that tank to empty then auto switch to the other tank. Just check the window on the regulator and if it’s solid red it has changed over. Flip the lever to the other tank and take the empty to get filled.

 

[Terri&KevinGates]

Realized that I didn’t really answer your question. They are mechanical and can fail but in the 10 years since we bought our first RV I have found them to be very reliable.

 

[Creek Jenkins]

Ours has failed to switch over for the second time. It works 4 out of 5 times it seems to not like cold weather. The red indicator is really vague as it is partially visible before switching when it then turns completely red. Very confusing. Our previous campers had an auto switch valve that turned from green to red on the switch and never failed. This valve seems like cheap crap.

 

[Creek Jenkins]

Okay now it will only feed from the left tank, even with the valve switched manually to the right side.

 

[Ox262]

I had one fail on my previous TT and the regulator wouldn't provide any gas. I called a mobile RV tech and waited. Then I had a thought...tap the regulator with a hammer. I gave it a couple of light taps on the metal body and the regulator started working and we finished our week camping trip. I canceled the RV tech. And I replaced the regulator when we got home.

 

[KCAlis]

I had one fail on my previous TT and the regulator wouldn't provide any gas. I called a mobile RV tech and waited. Then I had a thought...tap the regulator with a hammer. I gave it a couple of light taps on the metal body and the regulator started working and we finished our week camping trip. I canceled the RV tech. And I replaced the regulator when we got home.

Old gas tech trick, nice! Regulators and gauges can always use a little tap.

 

[Midnight Rider]

If it doesn’t fit?
Get a bigger hammer!
😂

 

[Creek Jenkins]

A friend at the campground with some experience with gas systems recommended I get rid of the propane gauges I have on the tank connections. They are pretty useless anyway and his theory is the added pressure drop thru the gauge could be an issue. I’m willing to give it a shot.

Also noticed the right(camp) side tank has a regulator in the line but the left side does not. It looks like the transfer valve has a regulator built into it so I wonder why the right side has an additional regulator?
Cheers
Crreeeeeek

 

[KCAlis]

Since the right side tank is distant from the switch-over regulator, they put a first stage regulator in it’s line. I think it cuts to 30 psi. May be a code thing to prevent leakage at the higher tank pressure?

 

[Creek Jenkins]

Good point, as plausible an explanation as any.

 

[BryanValRox]

Since the right side tank is distant from the switch-over regulator, they put a first stage regulator in it’s line. I think it cuts to 10 psi. May be a code thing to prevent leakage at the higher tank pressure?

To expand on Kevin’s explanation, I copied this from the owners manual.

LP Regulators
Your trailer is equipped with two LP regulators, each with different functions.
Step Down Regulator
This regulator is connected to the door side (curb side) propane cylinder and reduces the pressure in the supply line down to 30 psi. This is required by federal regulation for supply lines greater than 60 inches. The output of this regulator enters one side of the two-stage regulator discussed below.
Two Stage Regulator
To regulate the propane pressure throughout the RV, it is equipped with a two-stage regulator with automatic changeover. With the first stage of the regulator, the fuel coming from the tank is reduced by venting from the tank or extended feed line high pressure down to 10 to 15 psi. In the second stage, the pressure is reduced again by further venting
down to 11” water column which is the pressure safe for the appliances that the propane system powers. Always make sure that the vents are clean and unobstructed.
This regulator allows for removal of empty cylinders for refill without interrupting propane supply and will automatically switch from the supplying cylinder to the reserve cylinder when empty.

 

[BryanValRox]

So, while we are talking about propane, I came across this article.

It is an EXCELLENT and EASY read for anyone that would like to learn more on the topic.

Give it a read if you have 10 minutes to spare.

The ABCs of LPG: Understanding LP-Gas and Propane Systems in RVs

A refresher course on LP-gas systems, from DOT cylinders and ASME tanks to OPD valves and TW stamps

www.rv.com

 

[Lantley]

So, while we are talking about propane, I came across this article.

It is an EXCELLENT and EASY read for anyone that would like to learn more on the topic.

Give it a read if you have 10 minutes to spare.

The ABCs of LPG: Understanding LP-Gas and Propane Systems in RVs

A refresher course on LP-gas systems, from DOT cylinders and ASME tanks to OPD valves and TW stamps

www.rv.com

Nice article, while I knew a lot of the info I did not know it all. having it in a concise article is very beneficial for ALL RV'ers Thanks

 

[Shreck]

Nice article, while I knew a lot of the info I did not know it all. having it in a concise article is very beneficial for ALL RV'ers Thanks

Can anyone tell me why I am unable to screw the valve closed on the propane tank that is supplying the gas to my RV? The other tank is closed and I am still able to use my gas stove so I am sure it is in the open position.

 

[WE3ZS]

Is the tank valve in question able to be rotated at all in either direction?

 

[BryanValRox]

Can anyone tell me why I am unable to screw the valve closed on the propane tank that is supplying the gas to my RV? The other tank is closed and I am still able to use my gas stove so I am sure it is in the open position.

Any chance Superman was the last one to operate that valve?
I agree WE3ZS, see if it rotates in either direction, if not, consider spraying the the valve steam with a penetrating lubricant and careful try to use a pair of channel lock pliers for some leverage turning it.

If the valve is truly already in the closed position, I could see some stove operation for a very short period of time as the propane is consumed from the line.

If it is closed and stove continues to operate from that side, the valve must be leaking and need to be replaced.

 

[Shreck]

Is the tank valve in question able to be rotated at all in either direction?

No

 

[Shreck]

Any chance Superman was the last one to operate that valve?
I agree WE3ZS, see if it rotates in either direction, if not, consider spraying the the valve steam with a penetrating lubricant and careful try to use a pair of channel lock pliers for some leverage turning it.

If the valve is truly already in the closed position, I could see some stove operation for a very short period of time as the propane is consumed from the line.

If it is closed and stove continues to operate from that side, the valve must be leaking and need to be replaced.

I know the other one is definitely closed because I can open and close it. So I know the one in question is open because I’m getting gas to the stove.And no it wasn’t Superman but I am guilty of over torquing things.🤏

 

[WE3ZS]

Well, it sounds like you are going to need to put some of that enthusiasm to work forcing that valve off of its back seat, valves can get stuck open easy enough with a little extra umph.