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Underbelly access panel attachment

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SandDragger

Member
I recently had to replace a part for the automatic gate valve for the black tank. While I love the fact Alliance made access panels to get to some of these things, I'm looking for a better way to re-attach. After taking the screws out twice that hold the cover plate in place over the access hole, they obviously don't tighten up well due to the material they are attaching to. I'm worried about losing a screw going down the road and putting that into a tire. Tried using adhesive backed velcro strips, but it didn't even make it 1 day sitting in the shop and the cover panel fell.
Any good ways to security re-attach these panels so they can also easily be removed again for needed repairs?
 
BryanValRox

BryanValRox

Elite Member
SandDragger said:
I recently had to replace a part for the automatic gate valve for the black tank. While I love the fact Alliance made access panels to get to some of these things, I'm looking for a better way to re-attach. After taking the screws out twice that hold the cover plate in place over the access hole, they obviously don't tighten up well due to the material they are attaching to. I'm worried about losing a screw going down the road and putting that into a tire. Tried using adhesive backed velcro strips, but it didn't even make it 1 day sitting in the shop and the cover panel fell.
Any good ways to security re-attach these panels so they can also easily be removed again for needed repairs?
Click to expand...
Bill Martin has a whatch know Wednesday on this subject. He recommended cutting some slots and threading wire ties through the holes.
 
R

RockDr896

Well-known member
Here is what I am doing:

I am 1/2 way into cutting my underbelly into removable sections. I am running 1/8" thick aluminum angle across the width of the trailer and attaching to the frame on the ends. I then will be screwing the 2 angles together at locations across the width, as well as well as attaching the under belly material to the angle. The first section I did, seemed to hold up great this season, so I will be taking on the middle. The middle section has a big sag in the middle, because Alliance throws all the excess wire there, instead of tying it up to the frame, so that should be fun. Hot Rod John posted a picture of the rat nest he encountered.

The area where the plumbing comes through, I plan to just cut and frame out that area, using the same angle approach. The foam around the plumbing should support the material I leave foamed in around the pipe when dropping that section. After all, who wants to dig out the foam, if they don't have too!!

So I should be able to drop any small section of underbelly and put it back together by myself. I will be able to use the angle pieces to keep a tight connection. I am also using material, anybody can pick up at Lowes if they have an issue.

Last but not least, I had to consider not drilling into any tanks when coming up with this. Attaching the angle, as shown in the drawing, prevents that, as well as strengthens the bridged areas of underbelly. Of course you could do what Jim says, but I hate working in a small area. I don't bend and hold weird positions that well now days!! I HATE MUSCLE SPASMS!! LOL

Another Idea I had, was to rent an RV mobile tech for the day, to make the job go faster....haven't done it yet, but it is a good fall back position.
 

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D

dwcfish

Well-known member
I just recently installed an access panel and used tri-fold exploding rivets instead of screws. Made the holes in the coroplast just large enough to push the rivets through.
 
S

SandDragger

Member
BryanValRox said:
Bill Martin has a whatch know Wednesday on this subject. He recommended cutting some slots and threading wire ties through the holes.
Click to expand...
Geeez, I use zip ties on everything, I don't know why I didn't think about that! Thank you, that is probably the easiest way of doing this. Wouldn't mind putting some sort of tape up over like he mentions in the video. Any ideas what tape would stick but not remove material if I have to take it off?
 
S

SandDragger

Member
RockDr896 said:
Here is what I am doing:

I am 1/2 way into cutting my underbelly into removable sections. I am running 1/8" thick aluminum angle across the width of the trailer and attaching to the frame on the ends. I then will be screwing the 2 angles together at locations across the width, as well as well as attaching the under belly material to the angle. The first section I did, seemed to hold up great this season, so I will be taking on the middle. The middle section has a big sag in the middle, because Alliance throws all the excess wire there, instead of tying it up to the frame, so that should be fun. Hot Rod John posted a picture of the rat nest he encountered.

The area where the plumbing comes through, I plan to just cut and frame out that area, using the same angle approach. The foam around the plumbing should support the material I leave foamed in around the pipe when dropping that section. After all, who wants to dig out the foam, if they don't have too!!

So I should be able to drop any small section of underbelly and put it back together by myself. I will be able to use the angle pieces to keep a tight connection. I am also using material, anybody can pick up at Lowes if they have an issue.

Last but not least, I had to consider not drilling into any tanks when coming up with this. Attaching the angle, as shown in the drawing, prevents that, as well as strengthens the bridged areas of underbelly. Of course you could do what Jim says, but I hate working in a small area. I don't bend and hold weird positions that well now days!! I HATE MUSCLE SPASMS!! LOL

Another Idea I had, was to rent an RV mobile tech for the day, to make the job go faster....haven't done it yet, but it is a good fall back position.
Click to expand...
I did notice the wiring as well. And unfortunately, that's one thing I absolutely hate seeing, is a wire mess. I'm very OCD when it comes to wiring.
 
BryanValRox

BryanValRox

Elite Member
SandDragger said:
Geeez, I use zip ties on everything, I don't know why I didn't think about that! Thank you, that is probably the easiest way of doing this. Wouldn't mind putting some sort of tape up over like he mentions in the video. Any ideas what tape would stick but not remove material if I have to take it off?
Click to expand...
Your very welcome!
I would agree that tape to”seal” it up would be a great idea as well. As far as a recommendation, I don’t have any direct experience with a particular brand on the underbelly.
Hoping others will chime in with their experience.
 
George

George

Well-known member
I haven't used one but I've heard of folks using boat deck hatch covers. Similar to this one.
That was just a quickly found example. If anyone researches this and finds a better one let us know.
My requirements for one would first be that it's light weight and secondly it should have turn latches not a snap closure.
 
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Chaseweston

Well-known member
I lost one of these panels during travel and covered the hole with well lapped gorilla tape and it has held without issue for now. I don't plan on having to access the gate valves that often. If I do, I'll cut it out and then retape. I've had the whole front section down on our 46' Valor twice and what Rock Dr is doing is very underrated. Maybe a bullet point for future owner driven improvements from the factory. I've had to remove it to assess gray tank grommet leak, pull Romex for inverter install, double check clearance for drilling self tappers into frame web, again in the future to wire rear awning light and DS and ODS lights to 7-pin reverse signal, etc. all would be significantly easier with removable sections of underbelly.
 
F

Fishfnatic

Well-known member
Make sure to clean the surface really good. I bought some 6 inch wide and it holds ok on coroplast but not so well on the steel frame as I tried to cover some gaps where the coroplast meets metal frame. Read where someone used a heat gun to help adhere better on one of the reviews.
 
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