RV Cheap Heat install

[Coltsdad]

We had the RV Cheap Heat in a previous rig and it was one of the first mods I performed on the new 340. It is a pretty simple install if you are comfortable with running new wires on the 120 side and splicing in on the 12 volt side. The first thig I did was to removed all the basement walls to gain access and make some other mods.
I installed the new plenum and heating element supplied in the kit. Wired in the control box to the unit and the rig. Wiring it in to the existing heater wiring uses connectors provided in the kit with very detailed instructions.
This unit is probably not for those who boondock as this uses quite a bit of power to run but a simple switch and you return to propane and 12 volt operation. I can now back the rig into the shop for the winter and not worry about changing propane tanks or having hot exhaust blow out on the wall of the shop.

 

[Jim Beletti]

Nice work Jason. Love how you did the DC wiring from the outside. Much more comfortable working there than when I did my first one, nearly standing on my head inside trying to do the DC side . After that first install, I switched to pulling them all outside for splicing, then tucking them back inside.

I should be installing mine over the winter. Where did you grab AC power from? I noticed my breaker panel is full in my 340RL. With my power system upgrade project coming up soon, I will probably run the AC wiring for Cheap Heat then.

 

[Whitewolf]

Happy to see someone already did this in a 340. It was on my list to see if it was possible.

 

[Jim Beletti]

Happy to see someone already did this in a 340. It was on my list to see if it was possible.

@Ron Holden - Cheap Heat is a really useful aftermarket product. Jason and I have both installed it on past coaches. Love it. No more humping propane tanks unless boondocking. The 340 install should be among one of the easier ones I've done. I did remove the section of the wall on the door-side to open that space all up for projects (filtration, RO, power, Cheap Heat etc.). When I'm done with projects, I will put the wall back and make it easily removable like the ODS wall is.

 

[Whitewolf]

Excellent to know, Jim! This'll be a good project this summer.

 

[Coltsdad]

I pulled power for the Cheap heat from the outlet side of my hardwired progressive surge protector. I finished the basement wall project today. So I will get a post up later this week about that.

 

[Whitewolf]

Jason - So, you didn't piggy back on any other circuits and went straight from the 'source'. I like that!

 

[Jim Beletti]

Jason - So, you didn't piggy back on any other circuits and went straight from the 'source'. I like that!

Ron - like Jason, I too have a 340RL. All branch circuit breaker slots are filled in our panels so coming off that space wasn't an option. In past coaches, I have had empty slots and was able to come off the breaker panel.

If you need to chop your shore power inlet wire, consider re-splicing it all in a proper size plastic electrical box using Polaris connectors by NSI. Get the 3/0-6AWG size, 3-port model. Pretty $$ but super easy to work with and insulated. Amazon link.

 

[Whitewolf]

Thanks for the info and the link! I'm going to go ahead and get the connectors now in preparation of the Cheap Heat install.

 

[Jim Beletti]

Ron - for those connectors, consider using a box like this - link.

I'd probably put my cable entry and exit both on the same end of the box due to the orientation of the splices.

 

[Whitewolf]

I will. I do like the idea of using plastic instead of metal or just leaving them out in the open.

 

[TamRick]

I realize this is an old thread but I wanted to pass on what I did. I just finished my Cheap Heat install this weekend on my 340rl that has the super solar package. I ended up not using a separate breaker box but added the 30amp breaker to our Main breaker panel. My unit has a separate 30amp panel that I believe contains most of the solar breakers. (I still have not figured it all out) The main panel had several open spots for the required breaker. My reasoning, I wanted to be able to disconnect the 240v easily and quickly without having the breaker hidden behind a panel that had to be unscrewed in order to access the breaker. Also, during the warm months, I will be able to completely kill power to the unit. A plus on waiting a year to do this is the 10/3 wire is now a pink color and stands out in contrast to all the white and yellow romex.

My first delay, discovering the main 50amp shore power cable lugs were loose at the breaker and required lots of tightening. I found another black wire not even inserted into it's lug slot and had black residue from arcing. So I paused my install to check all breakers/wires. I ended up tightening up about 5 more wires. When I pulled the main breaker panel out of the wall, I discovered the cable clamp for the 50amp cable was never tightened so I fixed that too.

The furnace was tilted up from the backside and it showed on the outside the it was titled. I removed the furnace completely, removed the board it sat on. This board had 3/4" slats as risers that caused the tilt so they were removed. I had not intended on removing the furnace but in the end, it was much easier for the furnace wiring connections and covering of the side exit duct openings. While it was out, I installed the Cheap Heat add on box but had to remove it before re-inserting the furnace. It would not fit with the add-on installed. ☹️

The control box is mounted to a vertical panel so a slow water leak from all the pex connections does not cause a short. I may build a spray shield later to protect the electronics next to all these fittings.

Working within the tangled mess of wires and plumbing was like playing the old game of Twister! The unit tested out correctly and ran for 20 minutes with no issues. My remaining task is dropping the coroplast to run a 4" heat duct back to the fresh water tanks. My unit had a sole 2" duct running back to the tanks. While I'm under there, I will investigate why I have so little air coming out of the island vent. Using my scope, it appears the metal box duct work underneath the floor was partially crushed during the manufacturing process.

For those that have done this install, how's your experience been while using the Cheap Heat?