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RV Cheap Heat install

Coltsdad

Member
We had the RV Cheap Heat in a previous rig and it was one of the first mods I performed on the new 340. It is a pretty simple install if you are comfortable with running new wires on the 120 side and splicing in on the 12 volt side. The first thig I did was to removed all the basement walls to gain access and make some other mods.
I installed the new plenum and heating element supplied in the kit. Wired in the control box to the unit and the rig. Wiring it in to the existing heater wiring uses connectors provided in the kit with very detailed instructions.
This unit is probably not for those who boondock as this uses quite a bit of power to run but a simple switch and you return to propane and 12 volt operation. I can now back the rig into the shop for the winter and not worry about changing propane tanks or having hot exhaust blow out on the wall of the shop.
alliance basement (2).jpgAlliance cheap heat plenum (2).jpgAlliance cheap heat control box (2).jpgAlliance cheap heat wiring (2).jpg
 

Jim Beletti

Owner Experience Liaison
Staff member
Nice work Jason. Love how you did the DC wiring from the outside. Much more comfortable working there than when I did my first one, nearly standing on my head inside trying to do the DC side :). After that first install, I switched to pulling them all outside for splicing, then tucking them back inside.

I should be installing mine over the winter. Where did you grab AC power from? I noticed my breaker panel is full in my 340RL. With my power system upgrade project coming up soon, I will probably run the AC wiring for Cheap Heat then.
 

Jim Beletti

Owner Experience Liaison
Staff member
Happy to see someone already did this in a 340. It was on my list to see if it was possible.

@Ron Holden - Cheap Heat is a really useful aftermarket product. Jason and I have both installed it on past coaches. Love it. No more humping propane tanks unless boondocking. The 340 install should be among one of the easier ones I've done. I did remove the section of the wall on the door-side to open that space all up for projects (filtration, RO, power, Cheap Heat etc.). When I'm done with projects, I will put the wall back and make it easily removable like the ODS wall is.
 

Coltsdad

Member
I pulled power for the Cheap heat from the outlet side of my hardwired progressive surge protector. I finished the basement wall project today. So I will get a post up later this week about that.
 

Jim Beletti

Owner Experience Liaison
Staff member
Jason - So, you didn't piggy back on any other circuits and went straight from the 'source'. I like that!

Ron - like Jason, I too have a 340RL. All branch circuit breaker slots are filled in our panels so coming off that space wasn't an option. In past coaches, I have had empty slots and was able to come off the breaker panel.

If you need to chop your shore power inlet wire, consider re-splicing it all in a proper size plastic electrical box using Polaris connectors by NSI. Get the 3/0-6AWG size, 3-port model. Pretty $$ but super easy to work with and insulated. Amazon link.
 

Whitewolf

Well-known member
Thanks for the info and the link! I'm going to go ahead and get the connectors now in preparation of the Cheap Heat install.
 
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Jim Beletti

Owner Experience Liaison
Staff member
Ron - for those connectors, consider using a box like this - link.
034481066835.png
I'd probably put my cable entry and exit both on the same end of the box due to the orientation of the splices.
 
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