Looking for an electrical schematic for my 370RL
- Thread starter Don H
- Start date
Hi @Don H - I'm pretty sure entire schematics are not released. I suggest you email our Customer Service team at service@alliancerv.com and in your email, detail for them what you're wanting to do and what portion of the schematic you need. Include your contact info and the last 6 of your VIN.
I'm not familiar with the 370RL model. Do you mean the 370FB (front bath + half-bath)?
By the way, I have a 340RL and I'm about to do a significant power system upgrade to it:
- Dual inverters
- Lithium batteries
- DC-DC Charging
- Portable generator power inlet
- Solar possibly in the future
Love to hear more about your plans are.
I'm not familiar with the 370RL model. Do you mean the 370FB (front bath + half-bath)?
By the way, I have a 340RL and I'm about to do a significant power system upgrade to it:
- Dual inverters
- Lithium batteries
- DC-DC Charging
- Portable generator power inlet
- Solar possibly in the future
Love to hear more about your plans are.
Sorry, it is a 2021 370FB, not RL. Much the same as you. We plan on doing LiFePo4 batteries for the hydraulics and appliances (600 ah minimum) while on battery power. Then want to do a 5k converter/inverter (120/240ac with 12vdc and 800 ah battery bank - eventually connected to a set of roof mount solar panels. Want to be remote/dry camp for extended periods. I have ideas on how to tie it all together, but would like schematics to start with.
Hi Don - I can tell you a bit about the AC wiring based on what I've learned from my coach. Yours will likely be the same or very similar unless you have Gen Prep.
Off-Door Side 50A Power Inlet > Double-Pole 50A breaker in the breaker panel inside the coach > Distributed across branch circuit breakers on each side of the Double-Pole 50A.
If you have the Residential Refrigerator, the branch circuit breaker marked Inverter, feeds the inverter that is mounted in the Gen Bay. The output of that inverter typically feeds a number of outlets in the coach, such as:
- Residential Refrigerator outlet
- An outlet on each side of the bed
- The TV outlets
- Often, the outlet on the end of the island
- The outlet behind the recliners
The above is "to my understanding". Your system may differ.
Because I already had a Victron MultiPlus 3000-12v, I am simply adding a second one and will run them in split-phase. I'll be using a 100A Victron Autotransformer on the output of the inverters for load balancing. I'll also be using another 100A Victron Autotransformer on a 30A single-phase power inlet. That inlet will primarily be used to connect a small portable dual fuel generator (2880 watts on LP). The autotransformer between that inlet and the transfer switch will create split-phase from single-phase.
While I cannot guide you in an official capacity, I'd be happy to chat with you by phone about your plans.
That said, if you need more info (schematic), I encourage you to reach out to Customer Service via email.
Wishing you all the best on your install. Sounds like a nice, large system that will give you a lot of flexibility.
Thanks for the response and the information. I took your advice and emailed customer support at Alliance. Will see what they say. Everything I want to do is going to be new install with the max that the system will support, so I want to do it right the first time.
At some point I have to purchase the system components which I have been researching for some time now - I hope it pays off and gives me the capability I am looking for.
Thanks again for your help.
At some point I have to purchase the system components which I have been researching for some time now - I hope it pays off and gives me the capability I am looking for.
Thanks again for your help.
Radiant Forever
Member
Jim, look into LiFePO batteries... charge like Lithium Ion but superior in every way that counts. Only caveat is they need to be kept in a warm bay or in an environmental box as they don't like the cold.
Radiant Forever
Member
Jim, for the 390MP, is anything in the Office included with pre-wiring to the solar package? If not, can you provide that suggestion to Alliance? Our rig is being built end of April 2022.
Radiant Forever
Member
Jim, can you ask Alliance to post details on the solar panels and inverters on the resources tab? I know Alliance has been making steady upgrades with vendors as technology improves, and for availability due to pandemic... so make sure they include years or VIN# range for each type. Also having the wiring sizes used will be super helpful too.
For example, with the latest 320W panel offering, I would like to know details on charging voltage range going from panel to the charge controller, and what voltage range the charge controller and inverter will handle. If the solar manufacturer documents were on the resources page, we can look that up ourselves.
This information is useful for determining battery options. 12V DC is the standard for vehicle systems, but in typical residential hybrid solar applications, we start with 48V batteries. (Low voltage solar battery storage comes in 12V, 24V, 36V, and 48V). Higher voltage has advantages such as more power over smaller wire and higher inverter efficiency as well as higher power density in battery storage.
Challenges of higher battery voltage for an RV/Vehicle is DC equipment and lights are often all 12VDC while the residential side is 110VAC, so if contemplating higher battery voltage for storage, this has to be be either separate from the 12VDC system, dedicated just to the "residential" side of 110VAC, or a voltage regular added between the batteries to step down to the 12VDC side (which isn't expensive or difficult).
If the Solar Panel and charge controller support higher voltages, this gives us some design flexibility and could potentially push the envelope on mobile solar systems. As a rule of thumb for anyone reading, I would always want my solar panel peak voltage to be roughly double that of my battery storage. For example, for a 12V battery system, the solar panel should output 18VDC-24VDC. For 24V battery, the solar panel should output 26VDC-48VDC (or higher), and a 48V battery system, the solar panel should output 50VDC-100VDC. In all cases, minimum solar panel output must be higher than your battery storage and the charge controller designed to handle the input voltage range and output a steady charging current at the battery voltage required. There really is no downside to a higher voltage output solar panel, as long as the charge controller can handle and be set for the specific battery storage voltage desired.
Incidentally, anything below 100V is considered "low voltage", but I always recommend using 600V THHN wire regardless to exceed code requirements and remember it's the Amperage that kills. As little as 10mA will shock and cause pain and as little as 100mA can be fatal. That's why GFCI's trip at about 5mA.
Remember that regular circuit breakers only protect equipment, newer Arc-fault Circuit Breakers additionally prevent fires, while only GFCI's are designed to actually protect people. Please only undertake your own electrical work if you're experienced with electrical codes and safety!
@Radiant Forever - I'm using Battleborn batteries. They are LiFePO4 chemistry (lithium iron phosphate).
They only need to be above freezing in order to accept a charge. They can discharge to 0% SOC when freezing. Their internal BMS will protect them from accepting a charge when freezing. Good stuff.