HELP! - Leveling system not staying level???

[MartySchwartz]

Hi all
So we have a 390MP with the 6-point leveling system. We are currently sitting still in southern Virginia mooch-docking with family. So the issue is I have had to go out every morning and bump up the leveling system to get back to level. Over a 24-hour period the trailer will go from level to ~1.4 down on the drivers side. I have also had to add two quarts of ATF over the past three weeks. I have not found any obvious sign of fluid leaking anywhere but I have not opened up the belly to look further than the pistons. Before I call Service about this one I thought I would ask the forum to see if there is something simple I might check.

Thanks, Marty..........................

 

[Jim Beletti]

For sure sounds like a leak-down issue. I suggest you check all the locations that are in the open:
- In the gen bay where the hydraulic reservoir and pump / solenoids are
- At the top of all 6 jacks where the orange and black hydraulic hoses connect to each
- At the bottom of the jack housing housings where the cylinders slide up into then
- On each of the jack feet

Look for puddles, drips or signs of a past leak, like dirty or dusty wet marks. If no leaks are noted anywhere obvious, then you likely have a leak in the underbelly somewhere.

There is a method to the hydraulic plumbing in terms of how it runs, from where to where etc but I am uncertain of this path.

The underbelly material in front below the storage bay (drop frame area) isn’t too difficult to pull down. If yours is like my 340RL is, there will be TEK screws (self-drilling / hex head) on the off-door-side. I’d start there by removing those and pulling that area down for inspection. It’s best to use a small impact driver when removing these TEK screws. Using a wrench or standard socket set usually ends with snapping the heads off. I’ve never snapped one off using an impact driver.

If however, the area of underbelly you want to expose uses the driven-nail with washer (think, Ram Set), you’ll need to use a different method of fastener removal. I used a large chisel and a small maul to remove mine on my door-side. See my video example below.

Exposing Tanks - Jim Beletti

This video hosted by SmugMug; your photos and videos look better here.

beletti.smugmug.com

 

[MartySchwartz]

Hey Jim
Thanks for your feedback. I read it several days ago when yu posted it but did not respond at that time. Turns out I did need to drop the underbelly to locate the leak. There was about a gallon of ATF there so that was really fun. Had to poke a hole to drain most of it before dropping the underbelly material. The support folks told me to call a mobile RV tech but there was no one available in time so I wound up doing it myself. The root cause of the issue turned out to be a puncture in the pressure line going to the drivers-side rear jack pair. During construction a nail was driven through the floor and right into the hydraulic line.

Luckly I had kept the leveling blocks from the old trailer so I am able to use them to level the rig and not use the rear stabalizer jacks. Waiting on a replacement line now so I can swap them out. Hope it gets here before I leave the area. I have gotten really used to this auto-leveling system and I had forgotten how much work it was to level the trailer the old-fashoned way.

 

[Jim Beletti]

Hey Marty - glad you got it mostly sorted. I think I may have seen a picture of what you had going on (the nail). I believe that may be a driven fastener to secure the underbelly material to the frame in areas that aren't service prone.