Alliance 310RL Air-conditioner?
- Thread starter Billr57
- Start date
BryanValRox
Well-known member
I am also not an expert with the 2025 standard feature, but I can tell you our 2024 310 RL did not come factory equipped with them. I do know that they added the RV air flow system to the ducted ac unit to improve the output.
I would bet , that your salesperson was misinformed.
These are normally customer installed options after proving the need for them based on your camping style.
You can easily check by getting on the roof, removing the ac cover and looking for the soft start assembly.
If you find you were mislead, I would request that the dealership, honor the salesperson mistake or if you find that you have to install them yourself, hand them an invoice😂
At ~$250 each, I doubt they will be added as a standard feature.
TimothyFay
New member
They do claim we can run 2 of these units on 30 amps, which leads me to believe they do, however without climbing on the roof and removing the cover, I don’t want to say yes until I do so. My unit is on order and won’t be delivered for 6-8 weeks, so I will check at that time.
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I'm not really comfortable running 2 A?C on 30 amps. Yea they will run but at what voltage?
Why they may run , I avoid running 2 AC's on a 30 amp site.
I have a transfer switch that allows me to run the bedroom A/C directly from the pedestal's 20 amp circuit when I'm on a thirty amp site
Why they may run , I avoid running 2 AC's on a 30 amp site.
I have a transfer switch that allows me to run the bedroom A/C directly from the pedestal's 20 amp circuit when I'm on a thirty amp site
Running two on 30amps is not really an issue. Would only be an issue if both were to start under high head pressures at the same time. Running amps is significantly lower than starting amps.they are rated at 13amps. Just don’t try to use the coffee pot or microwave, I have done that too and been fine, but do need to be mindful of it.
Its not so much current that concerns me. Its when 2 units cause the voltage to drop to 107v-105 may dip below that.
Generally 30 amp sites I encounter are at older parks where the electric systems are old worn and not quite up to producing full output.
Both units will run but the voltage they are running at is not always good/sufficient.
If you running 2 units on 30 amps be sure to monitor your voltage carefully.
I understand RV electrical system is up to the task it's the campground side/output that concerns me.
Generally 30 amp sites I encounter are at older parks where the electric systems are old worn and not quite up to producing full output.
Both units will run but the voltage they are running at is not always good/sufficient.
If you running 2 units on 30 amps be sure to monitor your voltage carefully.
I understand RV electrical system is up to the task it's the campground side/output that concerns me.
BryanValRox
Well-known member
I agree with Lantley, voltage is an important consideration. Low ( or high) Voltage will damage your equipment quickly.
I use this meter to keep voltage values in front of me. In our 310 RL there is an outlet to the left side of the rear couch. The outlet faces the recliner area, so I can keep an eye on things as needed. I keep this meter plugged into that outlet 24/365. The beauty of this meter is that it has a dual color display, green equals good voltage , red equals low voltage. It is inexpensive and I find accurate . I consider it a necessity.
Dual Color Digital Voltmeter - Hughes Autoformers
” See if you are getting proper voltage with just a glance! The dual color digital voltmeter is highly accurate. If the LED light is green, this means your voltage is in an acceptable range. If the LED light is red, the voltage may be damaging to your RV! • Use this device to monitor … Continue...
True on the voltages but I rely on the EMS for that. Also, even though you are plugging into the 20amp with extra a/c on the same pedestal, on a full campground on a hot summer day, those voltages on the whole pedestal drop. I camp at 30 amp sites frequently, and I use that 20amp to run the high draw heating appliances like the coffee pot and griddle, as well as a fan on the patio. I use the progressive EMS HW50 C.
I have a progressive surge as well that typically cuts out at 104 volts or so? But relying on the surge is a pain because at that point you've tripped everything and you dead. Yes it can be reset, but I prefer to watch and monitor things before the surge takes over.
When voltage get below 108 I get concerned. Using the additional 20 amp circuit generally keeps me in the safe zone. I also have a volt meter monitoring the 20 amp circuit.
I can tell you from experience the voltage can get low enough to harm an A/C unit without the surge tripping.
Using the additional 20 amp circuit for a griddle, coffee pot or other resistive load is fine because generally low voltage will not harm a resistive loads. Coffee maker or heater may not get as hot as it should, but it won't be damaged.
Running a motor or inductive load is when it gets risky. Many seem to have trouble with their roof top A/C units over time.
I often wonder how many failures are caused by running units on low voltage. Most RV'ers do not closely monitor their voltages on those hot days when the A/C's are cranking. They hear them running and assume all is well.
Running 2 A/C units on a 30 amp site is doable, but you need to monitor your voltage to ensure it is adequate.
Don't assume just because the units are working that everything is fine. I have had to shut down one unit more than once because of insufficient
voltage. I've also had to get out my Hughes Autoformer on occasion to boost the CG power. But that's a different discussion for another day
Low voltage is a real concern, especially if you are using 2 A/C's on a 30 amp site
When voltage get below 108 I get concerned. Using the additional 20 amp circuit generally keeps me in the safe zone. I also have a volt meter monitoring the 20 amp circuit.
I can tell you from experience the voltage can get low enough to harm an A/C unit without the surge tripping.
Using the additional 20 amp circuit for a griddle, coffee pot or other resistive load is fine because generally low voltage will not harm a resistive loads. Coffee maker or heater may not get as hot as it should, but it won't be damaged.
Running a motor or inductive load is when it gets risky. Many seem to have trouble with their roof top A/C units over time.
I often wonder how many failures are caused by running units on low voltage. Most RV'ers do not closely monitor their voltages on those hot days when the A/C's are cranking. They hear them running and assume all is well.
Running 2 A/C units on a 30 amp site is doable, but you need to monitor your voltage to ensure it is adequate.
Don't assume just because the units are working that everything is fine. I have had to shut down one unit more than once because of insufficient
voltage. I've also had to get out my Hughes Autoformer on occasion to boost the CG power. But that's a different discussion for another day
Low voltage is a real concern, especially if you are using 2 A/C's on a 30 amp site
I have a 2024 Paradigm 310RL. I had to run off 30A service at a campground this summer. The 30A/50A adapter I have only connects power to what I will call Ckt #1. The bedroom AC is on this circuit. The two main living/kitchen AC's are on Ckt #2 which had no power. Don't know how you could get two AC's powered from a 30A service.
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Hughes Autoformers Dual Color DVM Dual Color Digital Voltmeter